Nara

A day out at Nara Park

5/6/20265 min read

Nara is about a 45-minute train journey away from our hotel and was one of our top destinations to visit while we are here in Japan. I have seen a lot about this deer park online, and it looked impressive. When you have travelled as much as we have, you do find yourself comparing the destinations you have visited, and for that reason, I try to take a step back and look at it from a purely neutral perspective. Thailand will always be my favourite country of choice, but many other countries have come close to beating its sheer beauty and history. So far, as much as I am enjoying my time in Japan, it still hasn't lived up to the hype. So I was hoping that Nara would come a long way to proving me wrong.

We took a rather retro-style local train to Nara; catching it close to our hotel. It took us 45 minutes to get to the park. With the end of Golden Week in sight, the train was half empty. It was a pleasure being able to breathe again, away from the madding crowds that had become so familiar. The rain had already started to fall before we left Osaka, and I was hoping it would only be a brief shower. So far, we have been lucky with the weather during our stay, but with Japan's seasons more unpredictable than Perth, I knew there would be some rain on the way and it looked like today might be the day.

As we got off the train, I could hear the rain falling outside — it was clear this was going to be a wet day and probably not the wisest choice for a trip to Nara. However, after picking up a couple of umbrellas in Lawsons before we left Osaka, we were as prepared as we could be. Yes, it was raining, but it wasn't a torrential downpour, and I was just happy enough to be out of Osaka for the day.

I don't know what I really expected with Nara. I had an idea what it would be like, but whether it was the miserable sky or total unpreparedness, I don't know, but it didn't quite hit the mark. Nara Park is vast, but with limited time, we only saw a small part of it. There were indeed deer everywhere you looked as we walked up from the train station, but I felt kind of sad that these beautiful animals were a bit of a sideshow for humans to take pictures of.

They were extremely friendly, letting you stroke and pat them gently. They dutifully bowed their heads as they waited to be fed, but as we made our way along the road to the temple complex, we were aware that not everything is as perfect as one is led to believe online. These deer are beautiful creatures — rubbing the top of their heads gently; feeling their warm antlers was a joy come true. I never knew that their antlers would be warm to touch, so I learnt something that day. But even though they were roaming free, something didn't sit right with me. I am a person who likes to see animals in their natural habitat, not a man-made sanctuary.

Coming from the New Forest area of England, on the south coast of Britain, I have seen deer and donkeys roaming freely in Burley village, in the depths of the forest, since I was a child. I was mindful never to get too close, as these animals were not as tame as they are in Nara. Viewing them from a distance was expected. But here in Japan, they were bowing their heads at your feet. Yes, it was beautiful to see, but it did feel a bit strange and alien, to say the least.

As we walked towards the temple complex and historic heart of the park, I became a little more hopeful. Yes, this was about the deer first and foremost, but it was also about the history of this fascinating town. This is why I travel to the places I do. I want to understand the culture and history of an area I am visiting. I love Asian architecture (Sorry, but nowhere has ever come close to beating Thailand), and this was what made my day. Darrell is more in tune with the nature side of things, where I am not. I love animals, but I'm just not a fan of being outside in the elements, communing with nature.

Asian architecture appears similar wherever you go in this part of the world, and the Japanese building style is very similar to other buildings we have seen in other countries. South Korea comes the closest to this more simple, understated style, but I guess my flamboyant nature still prefers Thailand's over-the-top, breathtaking building style. The temples we saw at Nara really spoke volumes for the gentle nature of the Japanese people, however. You could see their quiet, dutiful, and sophisticated demeanour in the structures we were lucky enough to see.

We walked down to the centre of Nara itself, where we did some shopping, walking slowly around the small artisan shops under covered arcades. The deer were everywhere you looked, and it is easy to see why this place is so popular with tourists. Don't get me wrong, I did love this experience; it was fantastic just to be away from the city, but I didn't feel completely at ease with it. Thankfully, we avoided Nara during Golden Week; I can only imagine how busy it would have been. And I have never been up close and personal with a deer and will likely never be again, so it was a magical day, despite my reservations, and one I will never forget.

We had a wonderful lunch in one of the many restaurants in Nara, which was the best I have had so far in Japan. It was a rather strange affair, however, sitting in your own private booth, covered with a curtain. This offered perfect privacy, which the Japanese are famous for, but it was quite unusual for Darrell and me, experiencing it for the first time.

We got home at about 5 pm. After a brief rest, we walked into the city, had a bowl of ramen, and took in the sights and sounds of Dotonbori, now that the tourists have left. It was a pleasure walking around, looking at breathtaking views of neon lights and a skyline full of skyscrapers. I do miss real city life, living in Australia; nothing down under compares to the energy a place like Osaka gives you. It is easy to see why people move to Perth, but for me, I would choose here any day. Despite feeling tired after our long journey and waking at 4 am every day, I feel more alive today than I have been in Australia over the past three years. This isn't a bad reflection of Australia itself, but a desire to feel less isolated in the arse end of the World!