Harukas 300 and Osaka Castle

I actually had a fantastic night's sleep, and my body clock is finally back to relative normality, well, loosely. I'm still getting up at stupid a clock in the morning, but it's been that way for years, and it's a habit I can't break. Nevertheless, after a rather mediocre breakfast, I was feeling rather chipper and raring to go. Osaka is a big city, so fitting in everything we want to do while we are here, will be a challenge. With Golden Week in full swing, we have decided to stay in the city for its duration. Using public transport, especially trains, to travel to Kyoto or Nara at this time would be a herculean task.

We took the metro to the Abeno Harukas Observatory and Osaka's tallest building. This skyscraper isn't the most spectacular architecturally that I have ever seen, but it does have some amazing 360-degree views of this sprawling metropolis. It was a clear day, and you could see every single detail of the city. As we stepped out of the lift, we were greeted by a near-perfect vista and were not disappointed by the experience. I have come a long way as the person who was scared of heights just a few short years ago. These days, I do tend to take these things in my stride. I still don't love heights, but I am gradually getting used to them, as we navigate the cities of Asia.

I suppose we spent an hour there, having our photo taken and looking around the shops on the 59th floor. It was certainly one of the more relaxing 'tall building experiences' I have had, and I did enjoy the early morning start, with very few people about. Like most places in the city at the moment, there are thousands of people everywhere you look, so early starts are essential during Golden Week. This holiday period does end on the 6th May, so there are only a few days left, and then the place returns to relative normality.

From Osaka's tallest building, we made our way to one of this city's most beautiful — Osaka Castle. Now, this experience was a bit of a waste of time, in my opinion. By the time we arrived there, it was about 11 am, and the queue of people waiting patiently to go inside the castle was biblical. The meandering wave of locals vying with foreign tourists was really just too much. The wait would have been three hours or more, so we decided to take a look around the outside of the complex and make our way back into the city for something to eat. 

From the outside, the castle does look breathtaking, but the reality of this tourist attraction is really about reconstruction. The original building was developed in the 1500s, but the latest incarnation was built in 1931. It does look extremely historic on the surface, but the reality is a pastiche of former glory. 

I wouldn't choose to go back to Osaka Castle, even when Golden Week ends. I am a history buff first and foremost, so I want to see more of the historical side of the city. So far, I haven't seen many traditional Japanese buildings, and that has been a real disappointment. Culturally, Japan appears to be a far cry from its richly layered past. Modern buildings, neon lights, and a culture moving forward at breakneck speed, rather than looking back, is the impression I am getting. This is a young person's city - full of colour and kitsch retro style. Everyone seems to be in a hurry, and nobody has time for anyone else. 

This is very unfamiliar to me, coming from the UK. British people are more friendly and embracing. The Japanese are polite to a fault, but they lack the warmth of Europeans, and it makes for a colder experience. Don't get me wrong, I am sure the Japanese are extremely affectionate, but I just haven't seen it yet.

Heading into the commercial heart of the city, we had lunch at one of the many ramen restaurants in Osaka. I am a big fan of this hearty dish, and wherever I've eaten it previously, nothing has lived up to the experience I had yesterday. I wish I could remember the name of the restaurant we ate at, but when we head back there again this week, I will let you know. When you find a place that serves great food at a reasonable price, you know you have hit the jackpot. 

The bowl of ramen was the best I have ever tasted, and I thoroughly enjoyed it. You can always tell a good restaurant because of the locals who go there. I didn't see a single Western face, and for that reason, I knew it was the perfect place to eat. 

The ease of finding somewhere to eat, the service, and the standard of food have really surprised me in Japan. Our experience in Taiwan was a rather more difficult affair, so I was expecting more of the same. But actually, it has been a wonderfully engaging experience. There has been no real language barrier; the cafés, bars, and restaurants have been clean and welcoming, and the staff attentive. This was in complete contrast to Taipei, where just finding somewhere to eat was a problem. Japan is streets ahead, and it shows in the high standards on display.

After such a hearty lunch, we didn't eat another meal for the rest of the day. The food was that filling. I am also mindful of the weight I am putting on here. From hotel breakfasts, snacks, and local food, we have been spoilt for choice in Osaka. This city is supposed to be the gastronomical capital of Japan, and it is easy to see why. We haven't eaten much street food so far, but hope to try out some over the coming days. Darrell isn't too keen on fish, but there are plenty of other local dishes to choose from, and I am determined to take him to a sushi restaurant, come hell or high water — wish me luck!