Dotonbori and shinsekai

With just a few hours of sleep under our belts, we decided to have a relaxing day, exploring the two most famous districts of Osaka: Dotonbori and Shinsekai. These aren't areas of particular architectural note, crammed with traditional Japanese buildings, but they are the real, live, beating hearts of this modern metropolis. They are full of colour and vibrancy and packed with sights and smells you just don't get living in Australia. This is the Asia I love — full to bursting with people, especially during Golden Week here in Japan.

We started the morning early — very early. I had only a few hours' sleep as my body clock found it difficult to readjust after the 12-hour flights yesterday, and the temperature was cold as we stood on the balcony, looking out across the city.

The breakfast at the Miyako City Hotel was a typical buffet affair — nothing special to write home about. But it filled a rather large hole after a day of eating processed airline food, and was good enough to start the day. Personally, I was a little disappointed with it, especially after paying the premium price we did for the room, but in truth, it was just what I expected.

Dotonbori, situated on a canal in the heart of the city, was quiet when we walked the short distance from our hotel to this lively area. It is, in many respects, a pastiche of Japanese style and exactly what we expected. I had read a lot about Dotonbori online and watched a few YouTube videos, so I had seen it before. The videos never really do these destinations' justice, and many of them create an impression or vibe that I  didn't get myself. Maybe it was the time of day we went or my first impression of the area, but it wasn't quite what I was led to believe.

I suppose there was a brief moment of frustration — I mean, it certainly wasn't Hoi-An in Vietnam, but it just felt a little tired and worn. I have travelled a lot over the years and seen many beautiful, charming places, and this wasn't in my top ten. However, as I mentioned before, it is the real side of Japan. There is no sugarcoating or pretending to be something it isn't. It is what it says on the tin, and you either love it or hate it. A history buff like me is constantly trying to find the traditional and historic nature of any place I visit, but despite its recent history, there was very little to excite me otherwise.

From Dontonbori, I headed back to the hotel for a brief half-hour sleep. It's remarkable what wonders a brief nap can do for your mental and physical well-being, and I was determined not to end up missing another day because of the lack of sleep. Darrell went off to do some exploring, while I fell asleep, or rather passed out, almost immediately, setting me up for the rest of the day.

I just wanted to mention the clothes I bought with me to Japan at this point. I packed like I was going to Singapore and instantly regretted it. After living in Australia for nearly four years, I have settled into the hot temperatures that we enjoy. Japan is quite unfamiliar in nature. The climate here is very reminiscent of my time living in the UK. You can literally get four seasons of weather in a single day. I packed for hot tropical climes when I should have been packing for Britain. The days have been chilly so far, although temperatures are expected to rise over the coming days. You need to cater to all seasons when packing your case for Japan, not what you expect it to be, because generally, it will be entirely different.

In the afternoon, Darrell and I hopped on the metro to Shinsekai, where the Tsutenkaku Tower is situated. Now, here is where my negative online impression was changed; a reminder that you shouldn't believe everything you read on the internet. I had been avoiding using the underground system because of the complicated nature of paying for the damn thing. I believed, incorrectly, that you would need special cards to use this system, when in reality you don't. You can literally tap your own bank card on and off at your destination — it's as easy as that. There was no fuss, difficulty, or confusing card purchases. One tap and you are done. It was actually one of the easiest systems to use and navigate. The moral is, 'don't believe everything you read, and try it for yourself'. These bloody online influencers are not necessarily the best people to give advice — take everything they say with a pinch of salt.

Shinsekai is a fun, retro-style district, full of personality and charm, and I did love it — probably more so than the rather pretentious Dotonbori. There were lots of small souvenir shops that I love, and I thoroughly enjoyed walking around this part of the city. Finding the metro system was also a godsend and will mean we won't have to spend hours walking everywhere, like we usually do.

We had a late lunch at one of the local Japanese restaurants there, which cost a very reasonable AUD$37 for a meal and two large beers. This wasn't a fancy place; it was packed with local people, and the food was lush. I'm not sure that Darrell enjoyed the beef offal and noodles or even the chopsticks experience, but I was more than happy sitting there downing a few beers. It certainly woke me up, leaving me feeling relaxed and content for the first time on this holiday — long may it last.

Finally, after lunch, we made our way back to Dotonbori to find some more appropriate clothes for the rest of our trip to Japan. By now, the streets around this vast area were jammed solid with golden week revellers. There were queues everywhere, as tourists and locals jostled their way towards bars, restaurants, and market stalls. I used to think the British loved queuing, but this was something else. I have never seen so many people in one place before. Coming from lil old Perth in Western Australia, this was a bit of a shock to the system, but not in a bad way. I actually enjoyed the energetic vibe and electric atmosphere. It reminded me of London, Rome, and Paris — places where I felt alive, cities where I felt at home.

Would I come during Golden Week again? Yes, I would! Don't believe everything people tell you about this strange week, where the whole of Japan essentially shuts down. It has made this holiday far more enjoyable seeing it, and the people have been infectious. However, I was glad to get back to the hotel and sit on the balcony, watching the sun set on another day in Osaka — a city like no other, in a country that is quickly captivating my heart!